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The following article was published in our article directory on November 21, 2013.
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How to determine whether you need better attic ventilation

Article Category: Advice

Author Name: David Kilburn

In the summer, good attic ventilation reduces heat buildup. In the winter, warm, moist air seeps into the attic from the living space below. That keeps your attic dry and reduces ice dams.

If you don't see any vents on the roof or in the eaves, you need to add some. Your roof may have a ridge vent, which is a low profile, continuous vent running along the peak of the roof.
Touch your ceiling on a warm, sunny day. A hot ceiling tells you that the attic is acting like a solar oven, raising your cooling bills and cooking the shingles.
Thick ridges of ice on your eaves in winter are a sign of poor attic ventilation. Warm air that escapes rooms below gets trapped in the attic. Snow melts and the water refreezes on the cold eaves, creating ice dams.
Warm air that escapes living space also carries moisture that will condense on rafters or roof sheathing. Grab a flashlight and inspect your attic during the winter. If you see dampness or frost, you need better ventilation.
For the best results, place roof vents near the roof's peak and soffit vents in the eaves. Air flows in through the soffit vents and out through the roof vents. We chose rectangular, hooded roof vents and rectangular soffit vents because they're easy to install.

How many vents do you need? Determine your attic area by multiplying the length by the width. A 30 x 40-ft. attic, for example, has an area of 1,200 sq. ft. Then aim for about 1 sq. ft. (144 sq. in.) of vent opening per 150 sq. ft. of attic. The building code lets you reduce that by half under some conditions, but more ventilation is usually better. The open area of a vent is sometimes listed on the vent as NFVA (net free vent area). If not, measure the size yourself. Roof vents will provide about half of the vent area and soffit vents the other half.

Adding roof vents is a simple matter of cutting holes and installing vents. Photos 1-- 6 show how it's done. Before you cut any holes, plan the locations of the vents.

Mark the roof vent locations from the attic, where you can see the rafters and avoid placing vents over them. Place all the vents on the same side of the roof. If your roof peak runs parallel to the street, put them on the backside, where they'll be less prominent. Space vents evenly and mark the locations by driving nails up through the shingles (Photo 1). Wear a dust mask while working in the attic and lay planks or plywood across rafters so you don't step though the drywall ceiling below.
Plan to place an equal number of soffit vents on both sides of the house, evenly spaced along the soffits. Look for nails and seams in the soffit that indicate framing locations, and avoid placing vents over the framing. To mark cutting lines on the soffit, make a cardboard template that's 1 in. smaller than the vent. If your house doesn't have soffits, one solution is to install roof vents near the lower edge of the roof. For better looking solutions, call a roofing supplier (look under "Roofing Materials" in the Yellow Pages).

If your attic is well insulated, the insulation might be plugging the spaces between rafters just above exterior walls. That means air can't flow from the soffit vents to the roof vents. In an older home, you might also find wood blocking between rafters that needs to be cut, pried or drilled out in order to open an air passage.

Keywords: roof vents, home roof vents, roof caps, turbine roof caps, turbine vents

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